(Bashing soul-less places. This is for Urbano dlC. Hope he notices it.)
I was walking down the street the other morning when a spiffy, yellow-painted building shone like a gemstone under the 9AM sun. It’s a modest three-story affair located almost right across the Levi’s building. It is named the Singer building. (You know the old brand name of sewing machine, now even TV sets and other home appliances, etc.) I strode past it admiringly, noting how it exuded “squeaky-clean.” After a few paces, though, I reached the old concrete path in front of Macondray Bldg., and things suddenly felt strangely familiar. Wait, I thought to myself, this is a place I used to walk on daily. That new Singer building must be the old office building that we (my employer and officemates) occupied for years!
This experience encapsulates to me my feeling for most of Makati beyond Ayala Ave. and the Ayala malls. Makati has been my workplace for years, but you could vaporize it, nuke it even, and I wouldn’t care one bit. I suppose most office workers there would feel pretty much the same if the question of “pride of place” is pursued. We’re just not part of the place, so how can we possibly have pride in it? We’re merely living robots occupying space and who happen to have weight.
We are totally free of affection when describing Makati. That’s the fault of the place itself, not the individuals who have worked and work there. To Makati, we're all mere matters who don't matter.
Of course, my mind couldn't help but rant: "I don’t know what kind of policymakers we have or what things occupy their mind, but that’s how and what we deal with from day-to-day – lack of vision, lack of pride, lack of sense of identity, lack of sense of history, lack of culture, lack of class. What we are left to confront with is our leaders’ own concept of ugliness, their vision of unlivable places and spaces. It makes you want to kill for no reason, or wish to cease and desist from existing."
Okay, that was harsh, but why can't a little sense and sensibility reign? We’ll only live once; we might as well do it in style. In a civilized world, art and architecture are important. Things like design and carefully considered details matter; they’re not a luxury but a basic human need.
I had my first job right smack in the heart of this financial district – to be exact, Salcedo St., Legaspi Village. I don't know how it looks now, but the place used to be a row of banks occupying mid-rise, bland-looking buildings, holding companies, possibly even investment and insurance houses, and two or three embassies – a typical steel, concrete and glass mix, well-maintained by janitors and guards on weekdays and practically a ghost town by the weekend.
I'd transfer from office to office pretty soon, as I hopped from job to job, but always always within Makati. The second-to-the-last address I went to along Buendia Ave. is now a neat row of call-center offices. I can write one long essay just on that one, and you can expect it to be full of angsty, alienated sentiments too.
“Soul-less concrete jungle” may be such a cliché a description, but it is an apt phrase for this place, although "jungle" is in itself a lot unfair, for the word evokes the excitement of natural wonders just as it promises the inherent danger in nature and wildlife. The artlessness of it seems deliberate, as though to say indeed, “I mean business!” The lack of subtlety, the bare-bone vulgarity, seems intentional, although at least it can’t be faulted for dishonesty.
But the hate – I can sense the hate palpably emanating from every crack in the pavement, every click of the sole of each leather shoe pounding every concrete tile, all of them saying “You don’t belong here so you better behave. Or if you think you do belong, then prove it.” The cold, no-nonsense, and literally calculating mien of the whole thing speaks to me so well.
I never need confirm the veracity of my sentiments for I simply know it to be true. Never have I realized myself to be second-class citizen in my own land than in this place, where I came face to face with the fact, as I learned to hop into this city’s party places and rub snobbish elbows. Its fashionable, good-looking, goal-oriented, highly driven, highly motivated, interesting personalities in their night club fineries and voluptuous vehicles that are parked in their sparkling gated communities, as I started accessing their password-protected and sticker-happy selves, started to open my eyes to a gasping disparity as gaping as the wound I began to nurse inside of me. Is that wound envy? Perhaps. Is it hate? Maybe. How about a communist sense of justice?
I never before entertained changing my nationality someday until I felt how much deprivation I had in the face of other people’s cup brimming with the finer things in life and not seeing any hope of them spilling over into the rest of us. They are not my people, I realized stupendously, and I’m sure they regard me in the same manner, whether they care to admit or not.
Makati’s unstylish exclusivity taught me that I’m but a second-class citizen in my own country that I figured I’d probably be better off being a second-class citizen of a foreign country. It’s more natural that way.
This sentiment is even more puzzling when I consider my insistence of the need for national pride of place and a sense of heritage, of identity, of country – something which most Filipinos are being faulted not to have. I can therefore feel acutely the sentiments those characters share in that achingly sad Turkish movie Away from Home.
It’s only now that I begin to realize that second-class citizens will never have that pride of place or sense of country. It just doesn’t make sense when their basic sense of dignity as a human being is not being met in the first place. That’s basically what is wrong with a place like this place.
Because most of us feel like we don’t belong because we're left out, and ostensibly so, the place is hopelessly a non-heritage site.
This sentimental lack of sentiment for a place that figures so prominently in my personal life is puzzling especially in the face of personal firsts – first paycheck, first termination, first promotion, etc. And yet look - it’s a place I knew I could leave any moment without a tinge of regret. To me, the place is such a snob without being stylish enough. It is a place I should resent but couldn't because that would require so much energy, a luxury I couldn’t afford to expend.
Whenever a classmate comes over from the States for a vacation, I always wonder why my batchmates skip Makati in their roster of possible venues for a night of fun. I strongly suspect the mere mention of the place evokes for them a kind of unattainability that embarrasses, that deflates the ego somewhat. I hope I am wrong, and that I am just being a sorry, negativistic, overly critical blob that occupies space and has weight.
Wednesday, August 22, 2007
Pasong Tamo Ext., Makati
Posted by R.O. at 3:34 PM
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13 comments:
awww. you need angst r.o. it makes you write brilliant essays. :)
whew, that was a long rant resty.
and yes, I did notice.
and I agree with you. Central Business Districts rarely have any soul. check around any city -and the CBD would be the last place you will find authenticity.
It's in the Village, in Upper westside, in Soho, in Tribeca that you will find people and a sense of place. Not in lower manhattan or wall street.
Same goes for London - the City and the Square Mile, even new Canary Wharf are not where you will find the beat of the city. It will be in Covent Garden or Soho and the West End or even Notting Hill.
In Shanghai, the soul beats in the Bund and the old city -not in Pudong.
CBDs can't be the soul of a city -because CBDs are designed for soul less commerce. It is the sale and mamon that reigns and the spaces are designed accordingly. The green spaces or artwork you'll find will just be baubles and ornamentation to help the commerce make another sale or to help business put on a fancy face.
And yes, workers in CBDs -no matter how tall the offices, how proud the skyscrapers, how squeaky clean the sidewalks -will never feel a sense of pride in the CBD. That is where they work, and unless you work for an innovative, cutting edge, creative workplace (if you do, you probably don't work in the CBD), you're just another cog in the machine.
No. If we are to find our megacity's soul, we will have to find it in the authentic places. In the older restaurants and houses in Malate. In the bars along Espana. In the eateries in the University District. In the offbeat stalls in Quiapo.
(Doesn't Quiapo, with it's layers of grime, feel way more genuine than the shiny streets of Makati.)
And CBDs, by their very nature, are not exactly the places to celebrate the individuality of our culture. In the age of global commerce, CBDs are meant to make the visiting businessman as comfortable as possible.
As to the gated communities. Your sense of exclusion is intended. That's why they are gated. And gated communities exist in nearly all cities. The rich would rather not rub elbows with the poor.
It's the task of good urban planning to make democratic cities -where there is inclusion rather than exclusion; where diversity and culture and quirkiness is celebrated.
If you feel like a second class citizen in the CBD, or if you feel like a second class citizen in the city -then you have two choices.
As you said, why not relocate and just be a second class citizen in another city in another country in another culture.
Or
You can work to make your city the kind of city where there are NO second class citizens. A city where everyone shares in the amenities. A city that gives you pride of place.
We all have a fundamental choice to make: to be citizens or to be strangers. To accept our alienation or engage the work of community.
And you can be a citizen or stranger where ever you might be.
I will admit, I do not feel the angst that you feel. Soulless as these places are, they are made as such because efficiency, in itself, is soulless. But one must never lose sight of the fact that soulless efficiency allows one to enjoy a soulful life after office -- if they choose to. The benefits of financial independence weight that heavily.
Today I am working in a concrete jungle that is just beginning to grow -- Bonifacio Global City. The exclusivity tends to scream a lot more there since it's right beside Forbes Park. Take a walk down Bonifacio High Street to sample the specimens from Forbes, or the newly occupied Serendra, and it is easy to feel that alienation.
But the question is, who is alienating who? Is it something that the rich do on purpose? Or is it a feeling that evokes from within our own insecure image of yourself and your perception of the right to enjoy the same things that they enjoy?
I agree with urbano here, in the end, it is your choice.
you're quite right, jon. i'd like to think it isn't intentional on their part indeed. at least not consciously. and certainly, i don't blame a few friends who belong to these gated communities; i hope to god not one of them will ever get tto read this because im not referring to them in their personal capacities. it's the resulting effect of it all that i mourn, whether intended or not. actually the second part of this essay has been written a long time ago; im just witholding it thinking how it may offend others, but that'st the truth i gues. im just voicing out what many ordinary people must think and feel. if i, who's not exactly dirt-poor can feel these things, how much more the rest? then again, im not sure if i am representive of "the rest." it could be that i am such an oversenstive person
sparks: but angst eats me up, so i am trying to avoid. marami-rami tayo nyan, and im wondering whether it is good for my health
urbano: wonderful inputs. you know, we need your knowledge here to serve your people in making this whole danged place a better one
typo: "im trying to avoid it." aargh. oc!
If youre worried about your health, R.O., try channeling the angst into some comedic essays like the best standup comics do. You certainly have enough material. Limit the full-on angsty essay to once a month or something. ;-)
As for the Makati CDB, I feel no sense of belonging there either, and to the upscale establishments that service it, but that's OK. I dont feel the need nor the urge to do so. That's why Im perfectly comfortable in it.
i can only do comedy once i have forgiven everything and have detached myself from it. but sometimes preserving the angsty part is vital, if only so others may fel they're not alone. i guess once a month is a good dosage
I totally understand your feelings. Coming from “old Europe” and now living (by choice) in the Philippines I am always wondering how people manage to feel at home in such a dual society. I don’t understand the poor, the middle class nor the rich.
A visitor from Belgium asked me recently how people manage to survive in such a dual society. I told him that probably everybody stay in his respective ghetto. The poor in their slums, the rich in their gated communities and new cities like Fort Bonifacio. Most of them never interact with each other. Walls around the slums and walls around the rich villages. Now at least I know how the middle class feel.
hi sidney. i saw your pics on your blog. i am tempted to say the juxtaposition oversimplifies the problem. the trouble is the stark contrast, the appalling duality exists, and to any decent person, that is unacceptable. i don't want to pass judgment on anyone, but let your photos and my feeble words, the plan reality speak for themselves.
sidney: im not even sure if im middle class. what im sure is that im high-class who happen to be poor
another "what's eating up gilbert grape?" hmmm... you don't see the soul of a city. you just feel it. unfortunately for you though, your senses are a bit clogged up with so much angst. nonetheless, you got one point right. you are just a weight that doesn't really matter. this country needs more people who can appreciate its idiosyncracies rather than point out its blunders. peace bro.
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